Whether you have leaking at the bolts, the flush valve, fill valve, or the tank to bowl gasket,the process for stopping the leak is much the same.

1. If the leak is at the bolts:
   
   1. Make certain that there are no metal washers in the tank. This will cause a leak. Sometimes,just resetting the position of the bolt head and rubber washer will seal that opening.

   2. Tighten down the tank to the bowl so that the tank sits on the ridge of the bowl. On most toiletsthe porcelain tank rests on the porcelain ridge of the bowl. The needed pressure on the bolt headand washer will seal the tank. Some bowls will not have a ridge, but use rubber washers orinserts to support the tank. Tighten down the tank until the rubber washers or inserts arecompressed. Then check for leaks again.

      Note: The nut and metal washer used between the tank and bowl help to hold the boltstraight while you install the tank onto the bowl. Before you install tank use the nut andwasher under the tank to seal. Place the tank on the sink. Add water and watch for leaks. Thisis an easier way to troubleshoot potential leak problems before putting the tank onto thebowl.

      Caution: Some toilets will not allow the nut and metal washer between the tank and bowlbecause the space is too narrow. If the hex nut rests on the porcelain it can crack the bowl.In this case remove the hex nut and washer. Use your best judgment when using these parts.

2. If there is constant leaking between the tank and bowl: A constant leak means the locknut is nottight enough or the rubber washer inside the tank has flashing (excess rubber) or fissure likecracks. There may be a crack in the porcelain or the flush valve plastic housing.
   
   1. Using a pipe wrench; tighten the locknut 1/4 turn more, dry and then check for leaking. If theleaking reduces then go 1/4 turn more and check again. If this still does not seal it then do nottighten anymore. Check the parts and gasket for any signs of flashing (excess rubber), orcracks, etc.
   2. If you find flashing, use your fingers to pull it off or use a razor blade to carefully cut away anyloose rubber. Make sure you do not cut into the washer.
   3. If the leaking gets worse when you tighten the locknut, something is cracked. Stop! andinvestigate.
3. If the leak is only when you flush the tank: The problem is at the sponge / rubber gasket.
   
   1. Leaking may be caused by a tank that is not tightened enough. The tank should rest on the ridgeof the bowl for stability, sealing the tank to the bowl with the sponge rubber gasket. If you havealready tightened the tank down to the bowl STOP! DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS ANYMORE. Check the fit of the gasket on the flush valve and on the bowl.
   2. The sponge rubber gasket may not be a compatible type for your toilet. Compare this spongerubber gasket in relative shape and size to the sponge rubber gasket you took out. If they aresimilar (or the same) proceed further. If not, you may need to purchase the correctsponge/rubber gasket to finish the job.
4. If there is leaking at the locknut of the fill valve:
   
   1. The washer in the tank may not be positioned correctly. The flat surface of the shank washershould be facing up and set against the flanged section of the fill valve.
   2. The locknut is too loose: Turn the locknut ¼ turn more. Dry and check for leaking. If thisreduces the leak then go ¼ turn more, dry and check for leaking.
   3. Try using a little dab of silicone sealant under the shank washer inside the tank. Sometimes thehole has a chip or is out of round.
   4. The threaded shank is cracked. This would be confirmed by the fact that each time you tightenthe locknut the leak gets worst. Even if you install a new shank washer it still leaks. In this casereplace the fill valve.
5. Leak at the coupling nut: Is the coupling nut touching the locknut? If yes, the tank may be thickerthan most. There are two immediate solutions without replacing the water supply or the fillvalve.
   
   1. Use a flat file on the top of the coupling nut. File 1/8” off of the nut. Then install.
   2. If the coupling nut is not a part of a stainless steel or vinyl connector, you can place one or twostainless steel metal washers under the cone washer and then install.
6. When you are using metal-flanged tubing as your water supply, is this supply tubing new?
   
   1. New tubing may only need a little more tightening. Used tubing should be replaced. There is aflat washer attached to the metal-flanged tubing that is used as a seal between the fill valve andflanged tubing. Because it keeps the impression of the previous fill valve it may not match up tothe new valve and leak. In this case, install a new Spiral tubing washer or a completely newwater supply line.
   2. If you hand tighten the coupling nut but your hand strength is not what it use to be, or theposition of the toilet makes it difficult to get a good grip on the lock nut, use a wrench and turnthe coupling nut ¼ turn beyond hand tight. Dry it and check for leaking. If this reduces the leakthen go ¼ turn more and check it. Do not go any further if this does not seal that connection.Check the installation again as well as the parts being used.
7. Are you using a metal spiral tubing type water supply? If so, DO NOT use the cone washer fromour kit.
   

   1. Metal Spiral tubing requires a cone washer that is specifically made for Spiral tubing. DO NOTuse the Fluidmaster cone washer that came in this kit. It will not seal the metal spiral tubing. Ifthe existing Spiral tubing washer is in good condition you may want to try it. If not, purchase aNEW Spiral tubing Cone washer at your local hardware store.

      Note: Any tubing that extends up into the tank will not allow the fill valve to seat properly. Youwill need to cut down the tubing so it can be inserted ½“ into the bottom of the fill valve shank.Use a hacksaw blade or pipe cutter to shorten tubing to accommodate the new fill valve.