11. While installing the Flusher Fixer Kit, why won't the sealant ring adhere properly?

Problem: Sealant ring will not form a proper seal to some ceramic or other smooth surfaces.
Solution: Use sand paper or steel wool to rough up the smooth surface. Also make sure the surface is clean and very dry before applying the sealant. Sealant rings are infrequently sold separately; call Fluidmaster if you need a new one.

Problem: The tank drain has debris or moisture left on the surface, preventing a complete seal.
Solution: Call Fluidmaster to receive a new sealant ring. Tank needs to be very clean and very dry to form a good seal; follow the directions carefully when installing the new ring.

Problem: Flush valve seat size does not match sealant ring.
Solution: In this case, two sealant rings are recommended. Call Fluidmaster to receive a second sealant ring, or two new sealant rings. Mold sealant rings together to form the shape/height needed. Follow directions carefully when installing the new unit. Back to top.

12. Why is my flapper and/or my tank stopper warped or rotted?

Problem: Your toilet tank contains high concentrations of chlorine from area water supply or chlorine-related product.
Solution: Install a new flapper and remove chlorine-related product from tank. If chlorine comes from area water supply, install a Fluidmaster Model 501 flapper (for use in harsh water conditions). Back to top.

13. Why is my toilet's flush cycle inadequate or irregular?

Problem: Linkage between flush handle and trip lever or metal tank lever is so corroded it does not move up and down freely.
Solution: Tighten set screw on handle linkage or replace the flush handle/lever with a Fluidmaster Bend/Trim-To-Fit Toilet Flush Lever.

Problem: Clogged flush passages under the bowl's rim restrict the flow of water during a flush.
Solution: Clear obstructions from passages with wire.

Problem: Tank stopper closes before tank empties.
Solution: Adjust chain or replace stopper/flapper with a Flusher Fixer Kit Model 555C, which includes an adjustable timing cup or an Adjust-A-Flush Flapper Model 502 which dials for a custom flush. Back to top.

14. Help! My toilet is clogged.

Problem: Blockage in drain.
Solution: Remove blockage with a funnel-cup plunger or closet auger. Back to top.

15. Why is my toilet tank "sweating"?

Problem: Cold water in the tank reacts with warmer, moist air from the outside, creating condensation. This tank "sweating" encourages mildew, loosens floor tiles, and rots sub-flooring.
Solution: Install an insulation liner (available at plumbing supply stores), or glue a liner made of 1/2" foam rubber padding to the inside tank walls. Back to top.

16. Why does the 400A's "C.L." (Critical Level) mark have to be 1" above the overflow pipe?

The 1" gap between the overflow pipe and the "C.L." mark on the 400A Fill Valve is required to meet anti-siphon plumbing codes. This gap allows tank water to flow out the overflow pipe, rather than into the air-gap inside the Valve where it could contaminate household drinking water. If this gap cannot be accommodated by adjusting the height on the 400A Valve, remove the flush valve assembly and trim the overflow pipe.
Back to top.

17. How does the Fluidmaster fill valve "signal" water leaks?

When a tank leak lowers the water level, the Fill Valve's float cup drops, triggering the Valve to refill the tank (even when the tank hasn't been flushed). This on/off sound is an immediate indication of water waste. The cause is typically a faulty flapper. Rod-and-ball type units begin refilling after only the slightest water loss, a silent process than can go undetected, wasting water for months (or longer). Back to top.

18. Yikes! My toilet is about to overflow!

Quickly reach into the tank and (A) lift the float up to stop the fill, or (B) push the tank stopper or flapper down onto the valve seat and hold while you turn off the water supply valve. Back to top.